The build is super-easy. I screwed the motors onto some thin plywood, and just attached the plywood to the arms with zip ties. Don't tighten it up, or it will compress the foam. I think tape would work just as well, and might not be so compressive on the foam.
I cut the noodles with my hot wire cutter, and glued them with Beacon Foam Tac. It really works well. White Gorilla Glue would probably work and might be a bit cheaper. I cut the curves using a pattern cut by a 2'' circle hole cutter. I might run some packing tape from the top of the red and green cross braces around the yellow arms back around to the bottom.
I used my handy Wago Connector power distribution system. It was nice coz I needed a bit of extra length to get the wires down the H frame. If after flying this looks like a reasonable thing to carry on with, I'll see if I can't run the wires through the noodles and eliminate some of the clutter.
I zip tied my KK2 board in the center, after cutting out a flat spot for it to sit on. I've got a Flip on order. I'm using a huge Rx coz it supports CPPM. I will never use anything else with a flight control board... it's so nice having to manage just one wire!
I cut a slot out underneath for a 3S 2200 mAh battery. I hadn't planned out the size, but got lucky that it just fit. It's being held on with a velcro strap
The top side of the foam arms and cross braces are reinforced with 3mm CF tube. It took 4 15'' pieces. I wanted to try some 1/8'' or 3/16'' fiberglass kite rods, but couldn't find any local suppliers. So, the most expensive part of the frame is the embedded CF tube. I taped the bottom of the arms with reinforced packing tape. I goofed up on the red and green cross pieces and glued them to the yellow arms upside down, with the CF rods on the bottom. Hope that's OK!
I embedded and glued the CF tube in a slit down the top. The idea is that the stick will resist compression, and the tape will resist pulling. The resulting arms are pretty stiff, although there's a bit of X-shaped flex in the overall frame. Of course, coz it's built from pool noodles! If it's too bad, I'll add some X bracing.
I'm going to add LED light strips inside the arms. This should make it a quite colorful night flyer!
I flew it indoors in a quick test... it needs some tuning, but seems to fly without trouble. I dropped it down from about 6' onto the floor. It was great, it just bounced when it hit.
Even though it looks a bit inelegant to some eyes, I think it might be a great trainer... the colors make it easy to keep visual orientation, you can see it in the evening, and it should take a crash as robustly as any frame can. I'll post an update and video when I get it into the air.
What is the flying weight of the NoodleCopter?
ReplyDeletewhere can we get a parts list?
ReplyDeleteWould be awesome to have a parts list, since there's a link to these pages from the Make book: DIY Drone and Quadcopter protects, but no parts list anywhere :(
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