ScrtSqrl's EasyStar outrunner mod

Cheap and easy way of mounting an outrunner on an EasyStar. Basic idea: cut 30mm off of a small medicine bottle and use that as the mount point.

EasyStar upgrade

(Oldie but goodie... I typed this in and didn't publish)

Here's some notes from Andreas on some mods he has made to his EasyStar.  (It's interesting how we met:  he lives about 5 minutes away from me in our little town; he dropped me a note after reading a comment I had left on rcexplorer.se.  I've worked with one of his old neighbors for almost 10 years!  It's a small and crazy world!)

• To really make the Easystar fast, you need a brushless motor, esc and lipo. I just used the equipment from the first helicopter I wrecked. Original propeller fit too. With that power I can fly in any wind with no problem. Performance similar to this rocket.
• This is a full mod-project but I did not find any structural re-enforcement necessary:
• The Easystar's rudder is too small. Especially once you add more power. I found this credit card trick the simplest and very effective.
• All hinges should be replaced with real plastic hinges instead of just bending the foam.asdfa
• Also the center of gravity is often too far aft, even on stock EasyStar. Must add enough weight on nose to make it controllable. So I think it can lift a lot of weight (FPV, more electronics for your autopilot etc).

Update:  I've done all these and they make the EasyStar a very nice flyer.  I changed to a Hawk Sky for the ArduPilot platform.

EasyStar Brushless Outrunner

ScrtSqrl has a nifty method using a 30mm medicine bottle to mount a brushless outrunner.

EasyStar Rudder Mod

 Here's my rudder mod for the Easy Star.  Executive summary:  Dubro hinges, twin credit store cards (store card, thinner and lighter).

 I connected the rudder to the vertical stabilizer using a pair of Dubro hinges.  This made the throw much smoother.  Andreas told me about this... cut slots in the stabilizer and rudder, and insert the hinges into the slots.  It will be nicely aligned.  I used the smallest amount of CA I could, and squeezed the CA deep into the slot before inserting the hinges.  Don't get glue on the hinges, or they won't hinge!

 Instead of the traditional credit card, I used a CVS store card, being thinner, lighter, and a cheerful red color.  One problem: I didn't like the asymmetric angle when one card was attached.  It doesn't cause problems when flying, since you just straighten the "extended" card rudder when attaching to the servos, but it looks a bit untidy.

I had an extra card, so I tried squeezing them together... as you can see in the second picture, it looked quite nice.  It added an extra 3.2 grams of weight to the tail,, but I don't think that will be detrimental.

 I taped the long edges together, then CA'ed that edge with some kicker.  I then CA'ed the two cards squarely onto the rudder, keeping the same appearance in the second picture.  I put a drop of glue into the gap and held it shut to keep the nice curve.

Following that, I attached the built-up rudder to the vertical stabilizer using the hinge and the method detailed above.  It was a bit trickier since I had to get both hinges aligned at the same time.  It doesn't hurt to dry-fit the hinges and reinsert them several times in order to get a nice smooth glide for when you're inserting the hinge with glue.

I set the servo attachment to the second hole, which looks like about the right amount of throw.  Instead of discarding the tape, I tidied it up around the edges and left it in place, mainly for the nice clean line it had.

Overall, I was pleased with how it looks and operates.  And I can tell people the rudder mod was done with Extra Care!

update: very honored for this to be included in the RCGroups E* Mods post!

EasyStar Brushless Notes and Shopping List

Here's what I did to convert the EasyStar to a brushless system.

Andreas recommends the credit card approach for expanding the rudder, and using real hinges to install.  I did that here.





Shopping List:

• Multiplex EasyStar (at Amazon) (at Tower Hobbies)
• HXT 2835 (380S) 2200kv Brushless Inrunner 
• TURNIGY Plush 30amp Speed Controller 
• Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack (USA Warehouse) 
• 6x4 prop
• update: prop adaptor! (I forgot, and ordered  this one from heads-up rc)
• HiTec HS81 servos (need 2, rudder and elevator)
• XT-60 connectors
• 16x28.5 mm Hinges for rudder upgrade (I didn't order these, Andreas gave me a pair of hinges).

 CA Glue and Kicker:

The instructions recommend CA (superglue) and CA Accelerator (aka kicker).  You can probably use just about any medium-viscosity super-glue.  You definitely want the kicker.  Don't get any glue on your skin along with the kicker... it gets hot fast, and of course it's glued to your skin!  A lot of people recommend using Goop glue (which is soft and rubbery) for attaching the motor.  Then it's a lot easier to cut out neatly if you need to replace it.

• Medium CA
• CA Accelerator

Range Video has two interesting EasyStar products:

• EZ-Pod: nice-looking no-mod canopy replacement for holding a camera with servos.
• Outrunner brushless motor mount:  not sure why this is any better than using an inrunner, unless you were planning on swapping motors a lot?

Chris has an awesome aerial video mount here, and a video down at the Alameda Air Station.