DIY FPV helmet, Part 1

I'm having problems fitting FPV goggles, coz I wear glasses.  So, based on an idea from Bruce, I'm going to try making my own ghetto version by attaching a video monitor to a welding helmet.

Here's the helmet I'm using. It was about $16 from Amazon, including shipping.

 Here's the welding glass cover pieces removed.  Now there's just an empty frame in the welding helmet.

 If I'm able to focus closely, I'll be able to attach the video screen right to the helmet.  This will be convenient coz I'll be able to flip it up.

I don't think I'll be able to get the monitor that close to my eyes, though.  I'll experiment to see the most comfortable distance with and without glasses.

Here's the headband.  It fits well and can be snugged up comfortably.  I think it might be better in this respect than commercial FPV goggles.

 Here's the head size adjustment screw.  There's also an adjustable strap that goes over the top of the head as well.

 And it's stylish!!  I'll take the inventory tag off, but I'm not sure how much it will help.  I'll also consider cutting the lower part off so my mouth is not covered.  It will make it easier to talk, and possibly keep my breath from fogging the inside of the display.

 Here's the 3.5 inch monitor I'm using for the first test.  It's the cheapest monitor on DealExtreme.  Resolution: 320x200, 12V.  It's not bad, but about what you would expect from a $22 monitor.

Here's how I'm thinking of mounting the monitor on the helmet. I'm thinking I can screw my hatcam on top as well.

Part 2 here...

My Farm Fresh Quad Helmet

Here's how I attached a vegetable container from the supermarket to act as the cover for the Arcticopter 4.  I used these standoffs:

Nylon 6/6 Male-Female Standoff 4-40
1/2" Body Length,
3/16" Male and Female Thread Lengths,
White (Pack of 100)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ms_ohs_product

Even though the vegetable container is very thin, the standoffs keep the surface taut.  If you tap on the top it will reverberate like a drum head.

I attached the standoffs to the frame, and colored the tops with a Sharpie to align the holes. I handheld a drill bit to cut the holes in the plastic.

 4/40 bolts attach the stack of standoffs to the frame.  This stack is 1.5 inches, but I think you could double that and still be reasonably stable.

One nice feature of the nylon threads is that they will break before anything else.  If you break the threads off of a standoff, it becomes a perfect candidate for being the top screw.

I put a piece of blue tape on the back to block off the green LED, which I found to be too bright in the evening.  I added a 3-LED strip plugged into the balance port which works pretty well: visible without being blinding.