TLDR: it's great!
Andreas Antonopoulos for this tip!)
Once you've verified it's working, you will want to change the network ID if you're planning on flying near anybody else using a 3DR radio.
Summary: overall I'm very happy. I spend about an hour setting things up (including taking pics and notes), and it's working smoothly.
Viewing Radio Stats
What to do if your network binding goes awry
Of course, this would not be a certified Mark Harrison Radio Experience (tm) if at least one thing did not go wrong. In this case, changing the network ID failed on the air radio, so I was stuck with a ground radio with an ID of 26 and an air ID of 25. Fortunately this was not too difficult to clear up; I'll cover that in the next post. (update: here.)